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Tricks and Techniques
Six Basic Knots
Z Pulley System:
Crossing those beautiful majestic glaciers requires a minimum skill level in the following disciplines - route finding, travel
techniques and rescue. The basic rescue technique in case of a crevasse fall is the Z pulley system, which allows you to
pull your friend out without the use of extreme force.
Building the anchor remains the most complex part of the rescue (judgment of snow quality, direction of pull, type of anchor
have to be decided).
The Z pulley requires a minimum of gear: 2 locking carabiners, 2 regular carabiners, 2 cordelettes (1 long, 1 short), 1 sling.
You must know the following knots: Prusik, bachman, munter hitch and blocking knot.
When the anchor is built, secure your friend with a Bachman, attach to the anchor with a munter/blocking knot and pass the
rope thru the main pulley. This portion of the Z pulley will hold your friend. Tie a prusik on the rope as close to the crevasse
as possible, pass the rope thru it and start pulling.
There are many other systems but make sure you know one system well before studying any others. Under a rescue
situation your ability to perform comfortably, and build a Z pulley swiftly, will make the difference.
Six Basic Knots
Z Pulley System:
Crossing those beautiful majestic glaciers requires a minimum skill level in the following disciplines - route finding, travel
techniques and rescue. The basic rescue technique in case of a crevasse fall is the Z pulley system, which allows you to
pull your friend out without the use of extreme force.
Building the anchor remains the most complex part of the rescue (judgment of snow quality, direction of pull, type of anchor
have to be decided).
The Z pulley requires a minimum of gear: 2 locking carabiners, 2 regular carabiners, 2 cordelettes (1 long, 1 short), 1 sling.
You must know the following knots: Prusik, bachman, munter hitch and blocking knot.
When the anchor is built, secure your friend with a Bachman, attach to the anchor with a munter/blocking knot and pass the
rope thru the main pulley. This portion of the Z pulley will hold your friend. Tie a prusik on the rope as close to the crevasse
as possible, pass the rope thru it and start pulling.
There are many other systems but make sure you know one system well before studying any others. Under a rescue
situation your ability to perform comfortably, and build a Z pulley swiftly, will make the difference.
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